Generally speaking, your towing vehicle liability insurance will cover your trailer while you are towing. The catch is, you will only have liability insurance up to the amount specified in your insurance agreement. In other words, you are likely covered for damage you do to someone else up to your policy limits, after your deductible, but NOT for damage done to yourself! Damage to your trailer, loss from theft, loss or damage from some other event such as a storm would NOT be covered. Loss from theft MAY be covered on your homeowners policy but you will need to verify this with your homeowners insurance to be sure.
Consider adding collision and comprehensive insurance to cover your trailer. It is usually a fairly inexpensive addition to your auto policy. This way you will be protected against loss.
If your trailer is financed your lender will require you keep collision and comprehensive insurance on your trailer for the duration of the loan.
If you have an older less expensive trailer you may not be worried about loosing the value of it, but for most trailers today, the cost of comprehensive and collision insurance is worth the peace of mind. Check with your insurance companies to verify and to be certain of what coverage you may or may not have.
Risa
First Aid Kit Basics
Be prepared! The list below is my recommended minimum number of items to keep in your horse trailer at all times. The list could be expanded into a seemingly unlimited number of items. Probably there is no way to be totally prepared for any and all potential accidents, injury or illness but we can try to be as prepared as possible. Keep these items in a water proof case if possible. Keep a lamenated waterproof card prominently displayed in your trailer with your contact information, your "in case of emergency" contact numbers, your veterinarians contact information.
* quilted bandage, disposable diapers or maxi pads
* wet wipes
* antibiotic cream or ointment
* roll of vet wrap / stretch bandage
* eye wash / skin wash
* PVP iodine solution
* rubber gloves
* adhesive tape / duct tape
* scissors / bandage cutter
* gauze bandage / gauze wound pads
* hoof boot correctly sized for your horse / horses
It seems a good idea to keep a horse health care / first aid hand book as well and to familiarize yourself with normal vital signs for horses. Consider:
Dr. Kellon's Guide to First Aid for Horses by Eleanor Kellon
Risa
* quilted bandage, disposable diapers or maxi pads
* wet wipes
* antibiotic cream or ointment
* roll of vet wrap / stretch bandage
* eye wash / skin wash
* PVP iodine solution
* rubber gloves
* adhesive tape / duct tape
* scissors / bandage cutter
* gauze bandage / gauze wound pads
* hoof boot correctly sized for your horse / horses
It seems a good idea to keep a horse health care / first aid hand book as well and to familiarize yourself with normal vital signs for horses. Consider:
Dr. Kellon's Guide to First Aid for Horses by Eleanor Kellon
Risa
Exterior Care
Your new Hawk trailer has a beautiful poly coated UV protected finish. Because of this there is little to do for exterior care. I recommend:
* Wash with a mild car wash detergent or Simple Green diluted as per label. I like to use a long
handled soft car wash type brush so I can reach the top. Clean one section or area at a time and
rinse well before moving on to the next section.
* When your new trailer is about 3 months old it is a good idea to give it a wax job. ( or let a neighbors kid, your kid or auto detail shop! ) wax the trailer with a good quality auto wax. Be sure to wax the top of the roof as well as the body.
*All trailers of all types get black streaks, this is caused in part from the aluminum top rail strip and the rubber window seals. It is best to wipe these streaks off with a cloth as they appear, if you leave the trailer dirty with black streaks for a prolonged period of time you will have to use a product such as "Streak Master" or other black streak remover and elbow grease to remove them. If you want your trailer to keep it's new appearance over the long haul I think it is best to keep it clean and give it a wax job once in a while! Streaking will lesson as the trailer ages.
*Lubricate all moving parts IE hinges and coupler latch with a light spray of WD 40. This will help keep things moving freely and provide a liight protective coating.
That is it for exterior body care!
Risa
* Wash with a mild car wash detergent or Simple Green diluted as per label. I like to use a long
handled soft car wash type brush so I can reach the top. Clean one section or area at a time and
rinse well before moving on to the next section.
* When your new trailer is about 3 months old it is a good idea to give it a wax job. ( or let a neighbors kid, your kid or auto detail shop! ) wax the trailer with a good quality auto wax. Be sure to wax the top of the roof as well as the body.
*All trailers of all types get black streaks, this is caused in part from the aluminum top rail strip and the rubber window seals. It is best to wipe these streaks off with a cloth as they appear, if you leave the trailer dirty with black streaks for a prolonged period of time you will have to use a product such as "Streak Master" or other black streak remover and elbow grease to remove them. If you want your trailer to keep it's new appearance over the long haul I think it is best to keep it clean and give it a wax job once in a while! Streaking will lesson as the trailer ages.
*Lubricate all moving parts IE hinges and coupler latch with a light spray of WD 40. This will help keep things moving freely and provide a liight protective coating.
That is it for exterior body care!
Risa
Time for Service?
Spring has sprung! Most folks use this time of the year for trailer service and maintenance. Really, your maintenance should be based on months and mileage. Though we rarely keep track of mileage! Here is the suggested service from Dexter Axle.
Weekly or at every use - check your tire pressure or prior to each use. Look on your trailer tire side wall for the recommended PSI and check pressure when the tire is cold - check your break away battery charge & inspect the connection - make sure your brakes are working - make sure all lights are working properly
3 Months - when your trailer is new at 3 months - have your trailer brakes checked for adjustment - we would like all 4 brakes to be equal - double check your lug nuts - inspect your tires for signs of wear or un even wear
6 months - or 6000 miles - check brake magnets, make sure your brake controller is working properly, have your suspension parts checked, IE inspect the axle mounts - check for wear or bending - check your wheels, looking for any cracks / dents / distortions
12 months - 12000 miles - the big service for the year
* check brake linings for wear or contamination
* check brake cylinders for for leaks or sticking
* check wiring for bare spots / fray etc
* check brake lines for wear / cracks
* check hub/drum for abnormal wear / sticking
* check wheel bearings & cups for corrosion / wear, clean and repack
* check seals, inspect for leakage, replace if removed
* check springs, inspect for wear, loss of arch
* check hangers, inspect welds
It is prudent in my experience to re check your lug nuts after you or someone else has changed a tire or removed a wheel/tire for service. On a new trailer check your lug nuts at 25/50/100 miles - this is important. If you have aluminum wheels, please check your lug nuts frequently.
If you do not know of a reputable trailer service company, ask around among your riding friends. The how to of servicing your trailer in detail is shown in your Dexter Axle manual included with your trailer paper work. For most of us though, it is best to have the service done at a trailer service or RV shop.
Risa
Weekly or at every use - check your tire pressure or prior to each use. Look on your trailer tire side wall for the recommended PSI and check pressure when the tire is cold - check your break away battery charge & inspect the connection - make sure your brakes are working - make sure all lights are working properly
3 Months - when your trailer is new at 3 months - have your trailer brakes checked for adjustment - we would like all 4 brakes to be equal - double check your lug nuts - inspect your tires for signs of wear or un even wear
6 months - or 6000 miles - check brake magnets, make sure your brake controller is working properly, have your suspension parts checked, IE inspect the axle mounts - check for wear or bending - check your wheels, looking for any cracks / dents / distortions
12 months - 12000 miles - the big service for the year
* check brake linings for wear or contamination
* check brake cylinders for for leaks or sticking
* check wiring for bare spots / fray etc
* check brake lines for wear / cracks
* check hub/drum for abnormal wear / sticking
* check wheel bearings & cups for corrosion / wear, clean and repack
* check seals, inspect for leakage, replace if removed
* check springs, inspect for wear, loss of arch
* check hangers, inspect welds
It is prudent in my experience to re check your lug nuts after you or someone else has changed a tire or removed a wheel/tire for service. On a new trailer check your lug nuts at 25/50/100 miles - this is important. If you have aluminum wheels, please check your lug nuts frequently.
If you do not know of a reputable trailer service company, ask around among your riding friends. The how to of servicing your trailer in detail is shown in your Dexter Axle manual included with your trailer paper work. For most of us though, it is best to have the service done at a trailer service or RV shop.
Risa
Is "Rumber" worth it?
The choice is yours.
Lets look at "Rumber" compared to Hawk's #1 grade wood floor with stall mats
Benefits of "Rumber" according to it's manufacturer:
*Will not rot, crack, splinter
• Serves as a cushioning surface
• Reduces stress on joints and soft tissue
• Easy to clean
• UV and water resistant
• Extremely tough and durable
• Most cost effective option over time
Benefits of Hawks standard "lifetime" wood floor
*warranted not to rot for as long as you own your trailer
* stall mats likely provide a greater cushioning surface, less road vibration, less heat
*easy to clean
*stronger
*cost effective
*allows drainage
*easy to repair or replace if necessary
My personal view, opinion and experience:
It appears to me that either the standard wood floor or the Rumber floor should have a life span that is equal to the life span of the trailer, in other words, either should last as long as I need it to.
In the event of a broken or rotted wood board it would be simple and inexpensive to replace with a board from a local lumber yard.
With Rumber, a replacement piece would be ordered and shipped, you would remove some of the floor and install the new piece tongue and groove.
Because Rumber is tongue and groove I find that manure gets stomped into the grooves, making it more difficult to get the trailer cleaned out compared to stall mats where I tend to let the manure piles dry out, then pitch them out.
Shavings can be used on Rumber to help prevent this. I personally prefer a minimal amount of shavings either way due to dust.
Urine cannot drain with a Rumber floor because it is tongue and groove, so some shavings should be used.
In comparing both floors, stall mats are a softer material so it stands to reason that vibration would be reduced with the standard floor and mats. There have been no concussion / vibration studies to compare the two, and I suppose there is no way to know whether or how much difference it makes to your horse. I also wonder about heat from the road transfered up through the trailer floor, it seems it should be greater with Rumber, but again, that is something that has not been studied.
Rumber is not a strong material, because of this it is critical to have more floor supports so the Rumber does not sag between the floor supports.
If your horse paws I DO NOT recommend Rumber unless you add mats on top. Though there is a 20 year wear warranty I would rather not have a horse paw through a floor or paw a divet.
Rumber is much heavier than the wood floor but with the addition of stall mats on wood the weight difference is negligible.
On a retail basis the additional cost of Rumber is currently between $45 and $55 per foot For a standard 2 horse trailer with a 10' stall length this to me is significant. On the resale market it does not appear to make a difference in price for a well maintained used trailer.
It is important to note that I have not had any complaints from clients that have ordered trailers with Rumber other than Rumber being more difficult to clean. Using shavings can be helpful in preventing manure from getting squished down into the grooves of a Rumber floor, and a pressure washer or strong flowing hose and brush can be used if you want a really clean looking floor.
At the end of the day, it is your trailer and your choice.
Risa
Lets look at "Rumber" compared to Hawk's #1 grade wood floor with stall mats
Benefits of "Rumber" according to it's manufacturer:
*Will not rot, crack, splinter
• Serves as a cushioning surface
• Reduces stress on joints and soft tissue
• Easy to clean
• UV and water resistant
• Extremely tough and durable
• Most cost effective option over time
Benefits of Hawks standard "lifetime" wood floor
*warranted not to rot for as long as you own your trailer
* stall mats likely provide a greater cushioning surface, less road vibration, less heat
*easy to clean
*stronger
*cost effective
*allows drainage
*easy to repair or replace if necessary
My personal view, opinion and experience:
It appears to me that either the standard wood floor or the Rumber floor should have a life span that is equal to the life span of the trailer, in other words, either should last as long as I need it to.
In the event of a broken or rotted wood board it would be simple and inexpensive to replace with a board from a local lumber yard.
With Rumber, a replacement piece would be ordered and shipped, you would remove some of the floor and install the new piece tongue and groove.
Because Rumber is tongue and groove I find that manure gets stomped into the grooves, making it more difficult to get the trailer cleaned out compared to stall mats where I tend to let the manure piles dry out, then pitch them out.
Shavings can be used on Rumber to help prevent this. I personally prefer a minimal amount of shavings either way due to dust.
Urine cannot drain with a Rumber floor because it is tongue and groove, so some shavings should be used.
In comparing both floors, stall mats are a softer material so it stands to reason that vibration would be reduced with the standard floor and mats. There have been no concussion / vibration studies to compare the two, and I suppose there is no way to know whether or how much difference it makes to your horse. I also wonder about heat from the road transfered up through the trailer floor, it seems it should be greater with Rumber, but again, that is something that has not been studied.
Rumber is not a strong material, because of this it is critical to have more floor supports so the Rumber does not sag between the floor supports.
If your horse paws I DO NOT recommend Rumber unless you add mats on top. Though there is a 20 year wear warranty I would rather not have a horse paw through a floor or paw a divet.
Rumber is much heavier than the wood floor but with the addition of stall mats on wood the weight difference is negligible.
On a retail basis the additional cost of Rumber is currently between $45 and $55 per foot For a standard 2 horse trailer with a 10' stall length this to me is significant. On the resale market it does not appear to make a difference in price for a well maintained used trailer.
It is important to note that I have not had any complaints from clients that have ordered trailers with Rumber other than Rumber being more difficult to clean. Using shavings can be helpful in preventing manure from getting squished down into the grooves of a Rumber floor, and a pressure washer or strong flowing hose and brush can be used if you want a really clean looking floor.
At the end of the day, it is your trailer and your choice.
Risa
What size straight load? Hawk Trailers straight load horse trailer sizing
Back in the day ( the 1970's), a horse trailer was considered "extra tall, extra wide" if it was 7' tall and 6' wide. Thoroughbred sized trailers were usually 7' tall and some came only 5' wide! Quarter horse sized trailers were typically 6'6 tall and 5' or 6' wide.
These days horse owners should consider horse trailer sizing that suits their needs and the needs of their horses rather than assume one size fits all.
Lets first talk about horses that are not heavy drafty types.
I have found that most horses up to 17h will be comfortable in our standard large size Hawk trailer that is 7'6 tall, 6' width and has a 10' stall length. This 10' stall length is split with 7' going to the body area and 3' going in the head and neck area. The 7' body area is measured from the breast bar to the rear door. This standard large sized trailer works well for horses measuring up to an 82" blanket size.
What if my horse is 17h and measures for an 84" or longer blanket size but is not a drafty type horse?
I start thinking about increasing the body stall area by 6" IF the largest horse you will haul measures 84" and up in blanket sizing. For these longer horses I suggest adding 6" to the body area, but without the drafty heavy body type the standard 6' width still does the job well.
What about my 17h and up Warmblood or drafty horse?
For true XXL sizing and horses 17h and up our Hawk Trailers XXL is the best choice. The height will be 7'8, the width is increased to 6'8 and the stall length is 11'. This 11' stall length is split 7 1/2' for the body area and 3 1/2' for the head and neck area.
To date the largest horse I have designed a trailer for was 18 2h! This horse is enormous, he lives in WA State. For him and his owner the trailer height was increased to 8', the width was increased to 7' and the stall length was 12'! This is a horse that measured nose to tail at about 12'!
If you are unsure of what Hawk Trailer size to order please give me a call. You might also consider measuring your horse; start with blanket size. Then measure nose to tail and also chest to tail.
Risa
Happy Trails!
These days horse owners should consider horse trailer sizing that suits their needs and the needs of their horses rather than assume one size fits all.
Lets first talk about horses that are not heavy drafty types.
I have found that most horses up to 17h will be comfortable in our standard large size Hawk trailer that is 7'6 tall, 6' width and has a 10' stall length. This 10' stall length is split with 7' going to the body area and 3' going in the head and neck area. The 7' body area is measured from the breast bar to the rear door. This standard large sized trailer works well for horses measuring up to an 82" blanket size.
What if my horse is 17h and measures for an 84" or longer blanket size but is not a drafty type horse?
I start thinking about increasing the body stall area by 6" IF the largest horse you will haul measures 84" and up in blanket sizing. For these longer horses I suggest adding 6" to the body area, but without the drafty heavy body type the standard 6' width still does the job well.
What about my 17h and up Warmblood or drafty horse?
For true XXL sizing and horses 17h and up our Hawk Trailers XXL is the best choice. The height will be 7'8, the width is increased to 6'8 and the stall length is 11'. This 11' stall length is split 7 1/2' for the body area and 3 1/2' for the head and neck area.
To date the largest horse I have designed a trailer for was 18 2h! This horse is enormous, he lives in WA State. For him and his owner the trailer height was increased to 8', the width was increased to 7' and the stall length was 12'! This is a horse that measured nose to tail at about 12'!
If you are unsure of what Hawk Trailer size to order please give me a call. You might also consider measuring your horse; start with blanket size. Then measure nose to tail and also chest to tail.
Risa
Happy Trails!
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